Little Critters Vet .com: Reptile Page (turtles, tortoises, lizards, and more)

Box Turtles / Tortoises / Aquatic Turtles / Bearded Dragons
Iguanas / Chameleons / Links Books

INTRODUCTION

Reptiles are fascinating creatures which I enjoy caring for. Unfortunatly, many of the patients I see in practice suffer from chronic malnutrition due to both a poor diet and an inadequate environment. I've started this web page so that I could have a readily accessible forum in which to post information that I hope will improve the care of these wonderful animals. Also included, will be links to web sites that I often refer clients to and which have extensive libraries on reptile care.

BASICS

What you need to know about your pet's requirements:
How and what to feed, Proper Environmental Temperature, Humidity Level

Most of the medical problems in these guys stem from a lack of knowledge on the owners part about the specific needs of the pet. The most important thing you can do to provide your reptile with a long and healthy life is to READ. I can guarantee you that the more you know about your particular pet the better that pet's life will be. There are many types of reptiles available and they all come from different environments and have different requirements for nutrition and environment. So, I encourage you to read as much material as you can get your hands for your particular type of reptile. Not everyone agrees on "exactly" how an individual reptile should be fed and cared for, but there are many accepted basics that you need to know. I believe that as long as you know the basics about your pet's wild lifestyle and strive to mimic that as closely as possible; you'll be providing better care than 99% of the population.

VARIOUS REPTILES

Turtles/Tortoises: Chelonians

1. Tortoises:

Hatchling Tortiose

Are largely herbivore which means that their primary diet should be composed of vegetable matter.

Have an upper and lower shell that does not close and no webbing between their toes.

The most common problem we see in pet tortoises is the over feeding of protein (dog food) to these guys. Again, you need to research the specific needs for your individual pet, but generally speaking tortoises should have about 80-85% of their diet comprised of leafy greens, mixed veggies and hay. In warm climates the best way to care for most adult tortoises is to allow them to graze outside and supplement some assorted leafy greens and veggies. Tortoises can also be fed fruits, but this should be a small part of their diet and given more as treats than the staple of their diet. Malnutrition in these animals can also be compounded by coprophagy (the eating of their feces) and a captive environment. These two issues lead to increased parasite burden in our captive tortoises. A regular part of their yearly exam should include fecal examination for parasite ova (eggs). I recommend that you always bring a fresh fecal sample with you when visiting the vet. There isn't anything we love better!

Most importantly, prior to buying a tortoise, please research the needs of the animal you are planning on adopting. To provide adequate care you need to understand their nutritional and environmental needs in addition to their longevitiy and eventual size.

Some types of tortoise can become very large, such as this Sulcata. These large pets can be destructive diggers and require a very roomy outdoor enclosure.

This...

Can become this...

2. Aquatic Turtles:

Hatchling Turtle

Are largely carnivores - meat eaters.

Have webbing between their toes

One of the more common problems we see in turtles is upper respiratory infection associated with vitamin A deficiency and poor hygiene. Signs include bubbles from the eyes and nostrils, itchy eyes with rubbing of eyes by front legs, swollen eyes (conjunctiva), open mouth breathing and gasping. Unfortunately, in captivity many turtles are kept in dirty environments with water that has been fouled by their food source and feces. It is best to feed turtles in a water source separate from their swimming pool. When artificially confining turtles to captive environments cage hygiene must be an important part of the pet's upkeep. Food sources for turtles include formulated diets fortified with vitamins and minerals, live food such as small fish, and veggies high in vitamin A for the youngsters.

1) Food: veggies, proteins, fruits

2) Environment: Clean swimming pool with filtration system. An area to dry dock is necessary. Full spectrum lighting - provided by sunlight not filtered through glass, or a fluorescent full spectrum lamp. The lamp should state that it provides both UVA & UVB light. Warmth should be ensured if kept outdoors. Indoors, environmental temperatures often will suffice but I like to include an incandescent bulb for "basking in the sun."

3. Box Turtles:

x-ray - box turtle

Are omnivores - eating both plants and animal products.

Are land animals

Have a lower shell (plastron) with a "hinge" to allow them to close their shell.

These guys should be fed a mixture of protein based food and veggies. Cat food should never be fed. Some suggestions for protein sources include small fish, insects, and formulated parrot diets. Assorted vegetables and fruits should also be offered to the pet box turtle. A common problem with box turtles is that if allowed they will consume only their favorite food and often ingest too much protein. A few ways around this include feeding only veggies when they are the hungriest and mixing food thoroughly to attempt to reduce their ability to pick out individual components. Box turtles should be supplemented with a calcium product and a multivitamin when young. Hygiene is also important with these turtles and can especially be a problem because they will frequently defecate in their water source leading to increased bacteria and parasite loads. Box turtles require a high environmental humidity level and should have access to a very shallow pool of clean water at all times. The water must be cleaned daily because turtles will typically defecate while soaking.

Diet: Box turtles should be fed a mixture of vegetables and protein. They are often deficient in vitamin A so a vegetable rich source should be fed daily such as squash, sweet potatoes and peppers. I've provided a link below for a formulated turtle diet (turtle brittle) that can comprise a portion of their diet (the protein). A variety of greens should also be fed daily and a limited portion of fruits and berries. All food should be finely diced when served.

Flooring: Preservative and chemical free soil or mulch rich in coconut bark and sphagnum moss will allow the turtle to burrow and will also help to maintain high humidity levels.

Water: A shallow pool of water should be kept in the enclosure and should be cleaned daily. Turtles will drown in deep water so the pool should only be about 1in deep and should have easy access for entering and exiting. Again, it is very important to keep the pool water clean to avoid bacterial build up and infections.

Shelter: If kept outdoors natural plant shelter is best and is needed to allow cooling, but if the turtle is kept indoors artificial plants can be placed around the enclosure and will provide the same feeling of shelter and security for the turtle.

Lighting: Sunlight is always the best, but if kept indoors the enclosure should have a full spectrum (UVA and UVB) light within 18in. of the floor and a basking light to allow for additional warmth.

Temperature: Average indoor temperatures are usually appropriate, but again a basking light should be provided to allow for additional heating up to about 85F.

Supplementation: Food should be sprinkled with a phosphorus free calcium supplement.

Common Disease Problems:

The most common problems we see in turtles are always related to an inadequate diet and environment. The best way to keep your pet healthy is to practice preventative medicine which is really just providing a good diet and environment.

- A problem we commonly see in turtles is respiratory infection related to vitamin A deficiency and too dry an environment. These turtles will have swollen eyes, bubbles form their nostrils and eyes and may sound congested. Many will be unable to open their eyes and may also have stopped eating.

Turtle/Tortoise Generalizations:

- Nutritional needs will vary with species

- Will benefit from regular sunlight

- Often suffer from malnutrition, parasites and bacterial infections

If allowing your turtle or tortoise to graze in your yard be aware of potential predators including the family dog. We frequently see injured turtles that the family dog thought would be a great chew toy.

Bearded Dragons:

Are omnivores: eating a mixture of plants and animal products, but the bulk of the diet is protein based.

- Common problems are similar as with other reptiles and include malnutrition from improper lighting and feeding. They often suffer from parasite infections and should be examined yearly. Bring a fecal sample! Hatchling bearded dragons have to be fed very small live food which sometimes can be difficult to obtain and hatchlings are more fragile. It is best to start with a slightly older dragon that can be fed readily available food.

A QUICK FACT SHEET:

ENVIRONMENT: Desert of Australia

LIFESPAN: 10+ years of age

SEXING: Males have a beard that turns black during the breeding season

Males have pre-anal and femoral pores

HOUSING: - A large aquarium with a natural substrate bottom and multiple climbing branches and hide boxes should be used.

- The type of substrate is often debated but may people advocate bedding such as sand, outdoor carpet, decomposed granite, paper towels, newspaper… Regardless of the type of substrate used, hygiene is the most important aspect to consider. You should choose a substrate that you can keep clean and fresh for your dragon.

- Avoid: kitty litter, bird litter (such as corncob or walnut shells) and wood shavings.

LIGHTING: Full spectrum lighting can only be supplied in the form of fluorescent bulbs and the bulb must supply UVB spectrum light.

The light should be ~18 inches from the cage.

A basking light should be provided in the form of an incandescent bulb placed above a branch.

TEMPERATURE: A range or temperature gradient should be supplied with the cool end of the cage at ~75F and the warm end up to 86F. Night time temperatures can dip down to the 70’s. The basking light should provide a focal spot in the 90’s range.

WATER/HUMIDITY: A shallow drinking dish should be provided Occasional misting with a spray bottle can be provided.

DIET: - These guys are omnivores: they eat protein and veggies.

- Very Young: Pin head crickets must be provided, feeding these hatchlings too large an insect can result in their death. Assorted shredded veggies.

- Immature: larger insects – a variety should be provided.

- Adults: As the lizards grow larger they can be fed mice or other rodents.

SUPPLEMENTS: The insects should be dusted with a phosphorus free calcium supplement prior to feeding. A multi vitamin should be provided twice weekly.

MEDICAL CONCERNS: - Parasite infections are very common in bearded dragons and will often result in cloaca irritation and prolapse.

- Malnutrition and metabolic bone disease due to poor lighting and diet.

- Gut impaction

Remember: A yearly veterinary examination is needed to keep your dragon healthy.

CONCLUSION:

Dragons can make excellent pets and I often recommend them to people considering purchasing a lizard. One benefit of dragons is that they don't grow as large as iguanas and they tend not to become aggressive. But, like all exotic pets they have very special needs and the potential owner should become educated prior to purchasing these pets. Also, remember that adult dragons must be fed a larger protein source such as mice and rats. If you aren't comfortable feeding this type of prey then a dragon is not for you.

Iguanas:

Iguanas are herbivores - eat only veggies.

Iguanas are a lizard that I do not recommend purchasing as a pet unless you understand and are willing to provide for all their very special needs. These guys will grow to be very large and males often become aggressive, have razor sharp teeth that can cause serious injury, and a strong tail that can be used like a whip. When buying an iguana (or any reptile) it is important to first research their
needs and be certain that you can provide the space, diet and environment that they require.

It is not uncommon to see advanced metabolic bone disease in Iguanas due to poor diet and environment. MBD is a lack of bone density due to low calcium and vitamin D (or sunlight) in the diet. MBD results in scoliosis, fractures and inability to walk.

We also frequently see adult iguana that have become so large that they cannot be kept by their current owners. Unfortunately many of the iguana rescue groups are full to overflowing with rescued iguanas and are not always able to provide a home for these guys. lease realize that these guys get very large and be certain that you'll be able to care for they later in life before you buy that baby iguana.

I recommend feeding a mixed leafy green salad with diced veggies daily. These guys will also need a calcium supplement (phosphorus free) and either direct sunlight or a vitamin D supplement as part of a multivitamin.

Another problem with iguanas is dehydration and kidney disease. They need much higher humidity levels than we are often able to provide in captivity. I suggest soaking in warm shallow water daily to improve hydration. Kidney disease is often linked to high dietary protein intake. Iguanas are not carnivores and should not be fed dog food.

Chameleons:

Female Chameleon

I love chameleons and personally find them to be the most fascinating of the reptiles. However, I typically don't recommend them as pets because they have very specialized needs and can be very frail in captivity with sudden death not uncommon.

Unique Characteristics:

- Their feet have toe bones fused into a specialized foot that allows them to climb & grasp.

- They have the ability to change skin color and will often change color when stressed.

- Their eyes can rotate independently.

- The chameleon family includes both egg bearers and live bearers.

- They spend their lives in the trees and foliage

- They drink rain drops off of leaves

- They have a long projectile tongue enabling them to catch prey.

- They are solitary animals.

- Males often have head ornamentation.

- They require live food - insects.

In captivity chameleons should always be housed with plants to provide them with a feeling of security. A drip system must be implemented to water them. There are several commercial products

available but a drip system can easily be home made by placing a bowl on top of the cage with a pin hole on the bottom to allow water to drip through the foliage and into a receiving bowl. They will not drink out of a bowl so the water must drip over the plant material. Alternatively, the plants can be misted several times daily.

Each type of chameleon will have special needs, but generally speaking they all require a source of sunlight, humidity, varied insects that have been supplemented, and a heat source.

One of the best things you can do for your chameleon is to provide them with regular sunlight. The sun should not be filtered
throughglass because this limits the absorption of UV rays.

Problems Requiring Medical Attention ASAP:
- Refusal to feed
- inability to open eyes
- swollen eyes
- inability to grasp or climb
- oral lesions

Sick chameleons tend to become critical in a short period of time and should be examine by a veterinarian at the first sign of trouble.

LINKS:

The best link I can refer you to is Melissa Kaplins web site. She has an excellent and extensive library of reptile information and is a well respected author.
http://www.anapsid.org/

ARAV - Association of reptile & amphibian veterinarians
http://www.arav.org/

Other excellent web sites:

Chelonians: turtles/tortoises

Eastern & Ornate Box Turtles
http://www.boxturtlesite.org/

Wood Turtles- Rhinoclemmys pulcherrima
http://www.chelonia.org/Articles/rpulcherrimacare.htm

Tortoise Trust
http://www.boxturtlesite.org/

Chelonians -
Veterinary Practice and Husbandry
http://home.earthlink.net/~rednine/chelonia.html

Foundation Turtle: anatomy
http://www.schildpad.nl/en_anatomy.html

Sulcata Station
http://www.sulcata-station.org/

Painted Turtles

Map Turtles

Common Turtle Species
http://www.klsnet.com/tspecies.html

Kane Turtle Heat Mats
http://www.kanemfg.com/petandreptileheatmat.htm

Water Turtle Care Sheet
http://www.petstation.com/waturtl.htm